Kilt Makers Association of Scotland
The Kilt Makers Association of Scotland was founded in Inverness, Scotland on December 4, 2001 for the purpose of establishing quality standards for the manufacture and tailoring of kilts and to uphold what they see as the"traditional" way of making kilts. To this end, a special trade mark or label was designed to indicate that a garment using this mark has been tailored and manufactured in accordance with the Association's standards. Only members of the KMAS may affix this mark to those of their garments which meet these standards. Membership is available only to those kilt makers whose work product passes inspection by an independent assessor.
In order to become a member of the KMAS, an applicant must submit a sample kilt of their own work for inspection by the Association's Quality and Technical Supervisor who will then inspect the garment and submit a written rerport to the KMAS as to whether it meets the Association's standards. Among the factors which are examined and on which the KMAS has set standards are:
- Fabric - must be of recognized commercial quality with worsted type finish and a good selvedge
- Amount of fabric used - KMAS standards specify approximately 7.3 meters (about 8 yards) or more;
- Pleats - there must be a minimum of 23 pleats, and they must be evenly measured showing the sett or line. The pleats must be hand stitched through the fell to approximately 1/3 the length of the kilt;
- Front aprons - must be proportionately sized, centered and fastening to the right;
- Sewing thread - must be corespun and at least 50 weght;
- Sewing accuracy - must be straight and hand stitched with at least 6 stitches every 2 cm. Also, there can be no more than 2.5 cm size difference between the seat and the bottom of the kilt.
- Canvas, lining, buckles - KMAS standards require a good quality canvas liner without starch, soap or synthetics. As well, the canvas depth is specified and specifications are set for the buckles and straps.
Traditional versus experimental or contemporary kilts
- As detailed in the Citizendium article on kilts, a traditional kilt has no hem, but rather the garment uses the selvedge as it comes from the loom, the major exception being kilts for young dancers which often will be hemmed in order to accommodate growth.